Tagliolini with Lemon & Sage Brown Butter
Of all the things I love about France, and there are many—climbing everywhere, the butter with crunchy salt crystal, the Muscat grapes, the wine, the language, which I will master, and the pace of life,— I love the availability of fresh cooking ingredients. At home in Alaska, my summer garden, the forest, and the sea offers me a different array of fresh, good, and organic foods, so I am truly lucky to go from Alaska to France where I can cook up a storm.
This is a simple, fast, and delicious dinner that is best at its best when made with good sweet butter and eggy pasta, which France delivers and you can find in your local grocery (try local or Puglia butter and, in Alaska, Alaska Pasta Company) fresh pasta. Served with a simple green salad, good parmesan, a crusty bread, and a bottle or light red or fruity white wine, you will happily go back for seconds.
The transformation of sweet butter to rich and nutty brown butter is the key to this recipe. It is a simple and fast process, which can add depth and new dimensions to a variety of recipes—shortbread cookies, roasted squash and vegetables, and soups to name a few. The sage is earthy and the lemon zest/juice add a bit of acidic brightness that complements the buttery richness of this sauce.
This recipe serves 4 for a light meal with salad and bread or 2 very hungry pasta eaters. It is takes as little as 20 minutes and the brown butter can be made ahead.
To get started, gather these ingredients and enjoy cooking.
1 pound of fresh or dry tagliolini (or fettuccini)
salt for the pasta water
6 tablespoons, sweet unsalted butter
10-15 sage leaves
juice and zest of 1/2 a lemon (2 tablespoons of each)
coarse sea salt or kosher salt for seasoning
Begin boiling the water for pasta. Set a large pot of water over high heat and bring to a boil. Season generously with salt until it tastes like the summer sea. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente.
While the pasta water is heating, make the sauce: Place a thick bottoms wide saucepan or skillet on the stove over medium-low heat. Add sage leaves. Add sage leaves and cook until edges curl and butter is dark amber (do not burn), stirring and turning leaves occasionally, about 6 minutes. Transfer sage to paper towels. Transfer sage to paper towels. Turn off heat and let butter cool for two minute then stir in lemon juice and zest.
Note: If you make the brown butter ahead, wait until you are ready to serve to reheat the butter and add the lemon and lemon zest.
Once the butter is ready, cook your pasta. If you are using fresh pasta, you will only need to boil it for a few minutes until, stirring occasionally, until al dente.
Garnish with fried sage leaves, passing cheese alongside.